Makaha's
Buffalo Keaulana: Surfing's Living Legend
By Bunky Bukutis
It
was a feast fit for kane o ke kai {men of the sea}, set in the shaded
cradle of Makaha Valley. A huge white tent covered Makaha Resort luau
grounds -- adorned with banana trees from Harry Ige’s farm in
Waianae Valley, kahili-like ti plumes, ulu branches, and sugar cane
stalks from West-side family yards, as well as tropical flowers from
the Big Island.
Just past noon Sunday, Sept. 5, kumu hula Tatiana Tseu’s Kamehameha
Schools Hawaiian Ensemble placed finishing touches of lauwai on a sea
of white tables, and some 1,500 people from all over the world began
streaming in to greet the birthday boys – Richard “Buffalo”
Kalolo’okalani Keaulana, 70, and Edward Ah Fan Tseu, 84.
As
the long line of well wishers swelled, it became an unusual mix with
Bandai Corp. President Takasu and his entourage from Tokyo standing
alongside legendary surfers Greg Knoll of California, Rabbit Kekai and
Henry Preece, and other not-so-well-known surfers and fishermen from
Hanalei to Kona.
Although the party invitation requested no gifts, two head tables soon
filled with fishing lures, a refurbished long board with the late Rell
Sunn’s name printed on top, a huge conch shell, a life-like miniature
statue of Buffalo, fishing knives and mountains of lei.
K-105 morning-drive disc jockey Brickwood Galuteira got the party rolling
with emcee duties by first introducing Makaha kahu and Hawaiian scholar
Kaupena Wong. In the spirit of giving, Kahu Wong created his own tribute
for the kane o ke kai, a chant which located the men in Hawaii’s
ocean by naming all eight ocean channels between Hawaii’s main
islands.
The tributes continued to run through performances by Weldon Kekauoha,
Darren Benitez, Augie T, Eddie Kamae, Melveen Leed, Amy Hanaialii Gillingham,
fire dancer Kap TeoTafiti, Danny Kaleikini, Robi Kahakalau, Jeff Rasmusen
and the finale by Cecilio Rodrigues.
Rodrigues chose the occasion to break out a new composition entitled
“Keaulana.”
With the chorus repeating, “Keaulana. You can feel the sea call
his name,” the operative word that raises the listeners’
understanding of this man and his connection to the ocean is “feel.”
Keaulana and the sea are unified in the most basic human instinct. And
according to Cecilio, you don’t just hear the sea call Keaulana.
Our mother ocean tells us that he comes to us through our sense of touch,
like raising the hair on your body (chicken skin), or a slap on the
head from Makaha backwash.
Cecilio’s song is the fourth musical tribute written in honor
of Buffalo. They include a song sung by Dennis Pavao and written by
Adam Holbron entitled “O Wai Kou Inoa,” Ledward Ka’apana’s
“Buffalo’s Song,” and The Ka’au Crater Boys’
“Makaha.”
Who else could inspire such an outpouring of aloha, or have brought
this massive birthday festivity to fruition!
“Buffalo, he’s moi (king) lineage,” said Leighton
Tseu, main organizer for the party which also honored his father, a
very successful fisherman in his own right.
“Buffalo’s lineage goes back to Kamehameha on his father’s
side and Kekaulike of Maui on his mother’s,” Tseu said.
So what was this ehu (blond-haired) Hawaiian royalty doing out in the
hot sun cleaning the parking lot the day before everyone sang Hau’oli
la hanau?
Buffalo is a humble man and a champion of common sense. He draws his
power from the sweat of his own brow, mixed with the salt of the earth
and sea.
He learned this mix early on in life, when, he admits, “I had
nothing.”
He never knew his father, who died in a dock-side accident a month before
Buffalo was born. Family trouble followed with a hot-tempered step-father
who would beat his mother, Buffalo said, and who would send whatever
luxuries the family could afford back to the Philippines. The home conflict
soon drove Buffalo away to find refuge with other families in Nanakuli,
including the Kaeos , Barretts and Lopezes.
“In order to survive with other families, you had to stay outside
in the dark or shadows for a while,” Keaulana said. “Then,
your friend would help you get your foot in the door. There was lots
of work to do. In the early morning, we’d gather eggs. Next, we’d
go diving for fish. And the rule was, ‘Don’t come home,
until a whole pakini (washtub) is full.’
“I know what it is to be homeless too.” Keaulana said. “Sleeping
in a cardboard box down the beach. You got to keep moving.”
School wasn’t any easier. “I had no money for lunch. So
I’d go fishing on lunch break and bring the school cooks my catch
for eat,” Buffalo said.
One of the hardest lumps to swallow was when he worked a week picking
up kiawe beans so he could buy a $1.25-pair of slippers to wear to school.
When he showed up at Waipahu High School classroom in slippers, the
teacher turned him away because he wasn’t wearing shoes.
“I had a few words for her (the teacher) that probably I shouldn’t
have said. But that was it. I didn’t have money for shoes,”
Keaulana said.
The sea became his school, his teacher and his survival.
But, a few years later, as things were going from bad to worse for him
on land, Keaulana got a second chance.
“I believe in that you know,” he said, “Everyone deserves
a second chance.”
Russ Takaki, his court-appointed counselor advised Buffalo to join the
Army. His entre was to tell recruit officers that he wanted to learn
discipline, a word that he could barely pronounce, let alone know its
meaning.
“The officer said, ‘Did you say discipline?’”
Buffalo recounted, “He couldn’t believe his ears. He told
the others I wanted to learn discipline, and they all laughed. But they
let me in.”
In the Army, Buffalo was immediately recognized for his abilities in
the ocean. And much to the disappointment of his friends like Junior
Alexander who were shipped overseas to war, Buffalo went to work at
Haleiwa Army recreation center as a lifeguard.
His prowess saving lives and teaching surfing to officers’ families
would earn him stripes. But instances, like accidentally not saluting
an officer because morning sun blinded his eyes, would bust him back
to PFC rank.
Keaulana began to make a name for himself as a body surfer while in
the Army. In the late 1950s, he was three-time, body-surfing champion
at Makaha International Surfing Championships, which ,at the time, was
the worlds most prestigious surfing contest.
“Buffalo was a fantastic bodysurfer,” said long-time surfer
Fred Van Dyke, formerly of California and a teacher at Punahou School.
“He did things, back then (the 1950s) like I never seen done before
on waves on the Mainland. Like at full angles, he’d do spinners.
This was before anyone did that, and he did it without any fins.”
After leaving the Army and taking a job as Makaha Beach caretaker, Buffalo
won the International’s surfboard division in 1960. He credits
his victory, in part, to the late Butch Van Artsdalen, who had mastered
a key maneuver on the surfboard -- the switch stance.
Naturally, Buffalo stood with his right foot forward (goofy foot). But
he was having trouble making the transition from a huge barrelling left
at Makaha Bowl to a swinging deep right turn at the blowhole, where
he needed to gather enough speed to make it through the reforming hot
inside section.
“I ‘d been watching Butch switch stance a lot, and figured
that’s what I needed on the turn at Makaha,” Buffalo said,
“So I practiced. After falling down a lot, I remembered how Scooter
Boy (Kaupuiki) would hop on his switch. So I did that little jump on
the turn and moved up on the board. The step forward made it possible
to get through the inside fast section. I used it (switch stance) at
the International and won my heat. After, Butch tells me, ‘Hey,
I saw that move.’ From there, I went on to win.”
Buffalo’s first surfboard was a redwook plank, soaked in creosote
and shaped from a railroad tie.
“We’d be sitting way down in the water, waiting for waves.
Then someone like Woody Brown or JimmyWong would paddle up on a new
board -- high and dry -- looking down at us. The wind would be blowing.
They were a little cold, so they’d say, ‘Hey you look warm
down there in the water.’ We’d tell them that they looked
a lot warmer up there,” Keaulana said ,
“We had hardly any floatation. And we’d give anything to
try their boards. In fact, as soon as one of them wiped out, one of
us would get to their board first and take a few rides on the inside
before giving it back.”
In the 1950’s, when California’s Greg Knoll came to the
islands he befriended Keaulana and Henry Preece of Haleiwa. Knoll started
making his own boards and would let the two local boys use them.
“The funny thing about Greg, was that he’d take us into
shops like Dick Brewer’s, and go down the line squeezing boards
to show us how much stronger his were,” Buffalo said.
Until recently, Keaulana had a 13-foot Knoll board which had held up
remarkably for its 40 years of use. Early this summer, however, Keaulana
returned the board to his friend and rightful owner James Arness, star
of the TV series Gunsmoke.
“I figured, he could put it up on his wall and bring back a lot
of good memories,” Keaulana said.
Since his victory at Makaha, acquiring boards has not been a problem
for Buffalo. In fact, it’s been quite the opposite. Everyone wants
him to ride their board.
So the problem is: Which board to ride? Many times, the solution is
much like what he does with the fish he catches - give ‘em away.
That’s not meant as an insult to the board shaper. It’s
more a combination of his own generosity in wanting to see his friends
get out in the surf and which board suits his weight and style.
“Most shapers give you what they think you should ride,”
Keaulana said, “Not what you want.”
To see Buffalo surf, there is no mistaking his distinctive style. From
afar, his upright, rock-solid posture is undeniable, and his graceful
switch stance on turns blends so naturally into moving up and down on
the board that an unskilled observer can miss it completely.
Studying his style is akin to studying his Hawaiian culture.
Keaulana approaches anything he does in the ocean – whether its
surfing, paddling, driving boat in huge surf for film crews, sailing
the double-hulled canoe Hokule’a, or spearing fish - from his
unique Hawaiian cultural roots.
While assessing situations, he finds the simplest, most natural way
to work with the elements, not against them. That Hawaiian trait fits
an interpretation of his last name Keaulana (to ride with the flow of
the ocean.) and his middle name Kalolo’okalani (brain of heaven.)
The older and wiser he gets, the more dedicated Buffalo becomes to his
culture.
A recent television show dedicated to his 28th Annual Buffalo’s
Big Board Surfing Classic, described the multi-faceted contest as something
“new” to surfing.
“That’s like saying our culture is new,” Keaulana
grumbled, “The things we do have been going on forever here in
Hawaii. Canoe surfing, tandem surfing, that’s all part of our
culture.”
The latest addition to his Makaha-based surf meet is a 15th division
requiring contestants to stand on their boards and paddle with long
paddles, a way of surfing nurtured by the Achoys of Waikiki and more
recently by Laird Hamilton.
Buffalo’s oldest son Brian won the division. But what speaks more
about the Hawaiian culture in this case is that Brian spent months preceding
the Classic getting others involved in surfing on his large tandem boards
and using his paddles.
“It’s all about fun and aloha,” said Brian, “That’s
what makes my dad’s contest so different.”
Another element is family. All the Keaulanas love the ocean.
“It’s our church,” said Momi Keaulana, Buffalo’s
wife of 44 years, a lady he met while playing ukulele under a coco palm
fronting her workplace Hale Auau on the beach at Waikiki.
“In the ocean, you’re in heaven because you’re in
God’s creation,” she said. “You feel like you’re
in the arms of love. It heals us physically and spiritually. Whenever
my kids were sick, I’d take them to the ocean.”
Some Keaulanas have kept close to the ocean by making their careeres
in it.
In 1965, Mayor Neal Blaisdell appointed Buffalo a city lifeguard at
Makaha Beach, a position he held for 35 years.
Brian followed his father’s footsteps, and helped pioneer the
jet ski as a rescue vehicle for the city lifeguard service. Brian has
gone on to work as a stunt coordinator for the film industry.
Second son Rusty is a three-time world longboard champion, and, at the
age of 38, still has a good chance for a fourth title.
Jimmy, Buffalo’s third son, is a construction worker and surfs
on his father’s Real B Voice team.
Last April, Jimmy wowed Japan youth by taking them for their first-ever,
out-rigger canoe rides at Shonan, Japan. The occasion was a Buffalo-style
surfing contest, the fourth of its kind held in Japan. Over the years,
the turnout of Japanese surfers and lifeguards has steadily grown to
massive proportions.
And Buffalo’s hanai sons include Oahu water safety officers Melvin
Puu and Terry Ahue, both rescue jet-ski operators and instructors, Kona
tropical-fish diver Alfred Estencion, and Tahiti black-pearl farmer
Eric Cavera.
The Keaulanas future in the water holds a host of grandchildren –
Keoni, also a Real B Team rider, Brandon, Bubba, Noelani, Nolan, Haa,
Keanu, Tiare, Rayden and Kelii – all of whom are developing gills,
and the bulk of whom helped secure this summer’s junior lifeguard
competition trophy for the West side.
The impact of Buffalo and the ocean grows as do his descendants. With
them, he steers a steady nurturing course, from their early days of
nene bottle, diapers and playing water. Buffalo’s dearest-held
hope for his family members is that they see the beauty that surrounds
them (Hawaii) and give back to that beauty by showing respect and aloha
for it.
His biggest challenge, and possible the greatest source of frustration
for one who has been raised with no material wealth other than his own
abilities, is to give his grandchildren a sense of how good they have
it. Hidden in that lesson is the knowledge that there never will be
another man like “papa.”
In a recent interview, big-wave-riding legend Knoll (aka – “The
Bull) captured the significance of his close friend of some 50 years
.
“He’s a man of few words,” Knoll said, “his
actions speak for him.
“Buffalo is the one who has gone on to carry the banner for Duke
Kahanamoku, the guy who most people think of as the father of modern
day surfing. And since the Duke has passed away, Buffalo has picked
up the gauntlet,” Knoll said.
“He’s been the guy, if you were to ask local people from
the islands who best carries the aloha spirit forward, it would be Buffalo
and his family for sure.”
And finally any story about Buffalo would fall short if it did not mention
his own sense of humor that mixes so well with his “one liners,”
and his own ability to tell stories.
Recently, a relatively new surfer at Makaha, Jesus Navarro, came to
Buffalo beaming about a past surf session. “You should have been
here, yesterday,” said Navarro, using the old surfer refrain,
made famous in Bud Brown’s film classic “Endless Summer.”
“That’s nice,” Keaulana replied, “You should
have been here 40 years ago.”
After his 70 birthday party, Keaulana took time to reflect on how well
everything had gone:
“Well, maybe in another five years, we’ll throw another
party. I just hope we’ll all be able to recognize each other.”
As for his story-telling abilities, stay tuned for Buffalo’s book,
which we are hoping to publish before he turns another year older.